THE COSTUMES OF
CARNIVAL
PIERROT
About two years ago Carlisle Chang began to document
some of the changing costumes of Carnival.
This field of costume documentation has been so neglected that we felt
that Mr. Chang ought to be persuaded to continue and allow his work to be
published. In re-creating the older
costumes every effort has been made to check the details with persons having
first-hand knowledge of the times, and the artist has also drawn on his own
knowledge of period costume. In this
connection we are most grateful to Mr. Andrew Carr and Mr. Patrick Jones for
placing at our disposal their notes and experience.
The rather drab Pierrot Grenade of present-day Carnival is the descendent
of one of the most magnificent figures ever seen in Carnival. This Pierrot, or Princely Pierrot, was a common
sight 50 to 75 years ago and was one of two varieties - the Baker, who wore
white or white and gold, and the Drama, who wore varied colours.
Pierrot's
costume consisted of a gown of satin, which was completely covered with
alternating triangular pieces hung with bells, the gown being worn over a
ladies' chemise. Small bells were
called 'glenglen' (or glęglę), and the larger, deeper-toned bells 'wooloes'. He also wore stockings, cross-garters and
dancing pumps of patent leather or suede adorned with pom-poms. Fastened round his neck was a narrow train,
sometimes 15 or more feet long, composed of various-coloured strips sewn
together and heavily decorated, which was carried by a page, usually an
uncostumed attendant. The page also
carried a short fighting whip, which the Pierrot usually made himself from
bullcord (bull pistle) cut into strands and plaited.
For
ceremonial strutting and speech-making (speechifying) Pierrot usually carried a
larger, carriage whip. As was the
fashion of the time, the head was completely covered in a hood and his gauze
mask, imported from Europe, was decorated with ribbons. On his head he wore an enormous beret of
swan's-down from which streamed more ribbons, and underneath this striking
headgear he concealed an iron cooking pot for protection.
Speechifying
was the principal occupation of this engaging masquerader. He made long, flamboyant declarations
glorifying his own prowess and prepared himself for this by acquiring an extensive
knowledge of history and literature. It
was not at all uncommon for Pierrots to deliver speeches from Shakespeare or
any other suitable author.
When Pierrots of opposing
colours met on the street these boastful harangues became more menacing. A line called 'the river of blood', was
drawn between them and each challenged the other to violate his territory -
"I am the King of
Dahomey, but I also rule over many countries that I have conquered. Do you now visit my dominions to offer our
subjugation or do you come as an enemy to dispute my rule?"
Eventually
one of the Pierrots crossed the line and they immediately started to belabour
each other with their short fighting whips.
When the fighting started the followers of each Pierrot would enter the
fray with sticks in a general free-for-all, aided and abetted by women armed
with bottles and stones. Fighting
became so frequent and severe among these maskers that in 1896 a law was passed
making it necessary for a special licence to be obtained from the police in
order to play this type of mask.
The
local pronunciation of this character's name was "Pay-wo', which is
thought in some circles to have arisen from 'Pays-roi', the country king, a
character typical to this masquerader.