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THE ISLAND OF TRINIDAD
Lies on the North-East Coast of South America, near the entrance of the River Orinoco (Oroonoko) in the 11° of north Latitude, and 61° Longitude West of London. It is the largest and southern-most of all the Leeward Islands, measuring in its extreme length from East to West 60 British miles, and from North to South 45 miles; containing 2,400 square miles superficial measure. It must be observed here, as one of the peculiar advantages of this Island, that it is without the reach of the Hurricanes so destructive in Jamaica and some other Islands. Trinidad was discovered by Christopher Columbus, in his third voyage, July 31st, 1498, and so named from its appearance, at 13 leagues distance to the S.E. with three heads or mountains above all the rest. It was then inhabited by Caribs of a very mild disposition, industrious, well made, and of a whiter colour than that of the people of the other islands. The greatest part of them however were already destroyed, in 1518, when the Spaniards, for working the mines, made slaves of all the Indians they could kidnap, under the abominable pretence that they were man-eaters: The virtuous Las Casas could rescue but very few inhabitants of Trinidad from this general Proscription.
Sir Walter Raleigh, who was in the Island of Trinidad in 1593, remarks upon it as being very proper for the cultivation of Tobacco and Sweet Canes; also of the Spaniards having told him, that Gold could be found in the Island, chiefly in the beds of the rivers.
The Spanish accounts of Trinidad are very few, and remarkably deficient; Father Joseph Gumilla, from whom we might have expected a complete description of the Island, has taken very little notice of it in his History of the Oroonoko (Orinoco illustrado).
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Abbé Raynal, in the Histoire politique et philosophique des deux Indes, says, “the design of the first settlement of this Island was for the purpose of securing the conquest of the Orinoco”.
Alcedo, in his Dictionary of the West Indies and America, is the only Spanish Author who has entered into some detail concerning Trinidad; he speaks with rapture of its fertility, its numerous and various productions; such as excellent Grapes, and innumerable quantity of Oranges of the most exquisite flavour; of Seville Oranges, Citrons, Lemons, &c. besides all the fruits peculiar to the West Indies. It produces likewise Coffee, and supplies the Island of Margarita and several other places with Mayze. The article of Indigo is particularly noticed as growing wild in great abundance of the best quality, and the Cocoa as being equally good with that of the Province of Caracoa, which is esteemed the best of the Spanish West Indies; Gumilla says, that it was preferred by the Traders to the Cocoa of the Caraccas; but that the plantations, or Cocoa walks, have been so neglected since the year 1727, that there are scarce any left now in the island; in short, these productions are such, that the Discoverers, comparing it with the other Islands, distinguished it by the name of The PARADISE.
The Map of the Island of Trinidad, which this brief account is intended to accompany, appears to have been grounded on the Spanish Maritime Survey made by order of Government in 1793, and the Topography of the Interior to have been executed by Mr. Mallet in 1797, under the directions of the late Sir Ralph Abercrombie, K. B. when the British Forces took possession of Island. In the present Map all the Plots of Land which have been granted by the Crown of Spain since its first Establishment are carefully laid down, divided into Quarters, distinguishing those which have Settlements, together with the Proprietors Names, of which a list is annexed. The Map likewise exhibits all those Lands remaining to be disposed of, which are laid down, divided into Quarters, distinguishing those which have Settlements, together with the proprietors names, of whom a list is annexed. The map like wise exhibits all those lands remaining to be disposed of, which are laid out in Lots (numbered) containing 100 Squares, or 320 Acres; each Square being 100 Paces of 3½ feet long, is equal to 3 Acres. The lots are divided into Quarters or Districts, for the purpose of ascertaining their respective Situations, and other local advantages; these Lands are in general covered with very thick Woods.
In this Island there are three distinct Ridges of Mountains, the Northern, Middle and Southern, which are mostly inaccessible, and covered with all kinds of incorruptible Woods proper for Ship-Building.*
*The
Island, says Alcedo, is a continual Forest of precious Timber,
such as Cedars, Walnut-trees of several sorts; Palm Trees of various Kinds,
Guayacum Tree,” &c.
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The Rivers, several of which are considerable, have been traced and examined as to what distance they are navigable, and also with respect to the improvements that they may be capable of by deepening their Beds, new Canals, &c.
The navigable Rivers on the West Coast or Gulph, are the Caroni, Guaracara, Coura, and Siparia; those on the East Coast are the Ortoire, Neg, Lebranche, and the Oropuche, all which abound with many kinds of First, but those on the East Coast are particularly frequented by Sharks; by the Lamentin (Sea Cow or Manattee) weighing generally from 500 to 800 cwt. sometimes 16 cwt. it is harpooned like the whale, and its flesh is very good fresh or dry: some of this species have been caught in the French Antilles, measuring 20 feet in length and 10 in breadth; you meet also with the Pantouflier, or Zigene, a dangerous and voracious monster, about 10 or 12 feet long, and thick in proportion; its head is shaped liked a hammer, having large round terrific eyes, a wide mouth well armed with teeth, and more conveniently disposed for biting than those of the Shark, whose body it most resembles. This Fish is common in the French Antilles, and has been often found at Guadalupe, in the Road of Basse Terre.
The Caroni is the principal River of the Island, being navigable from its entrance in the Gulph of Paria to the Aripo, a distance of nearly 20 British miles.
The Aripo, a branch of the Caroni, is navigable; which, by means of a Canal to connect it with the Guaro, (a branch of the Oropuche also navigable to the Sea); a communication might be opened from the West Coast or Gulph or Paria to the East Coast or Atlantic.
The Guanape, or Guanaba, a branch of the Caroni, is also navigable, but hath less depth of water than the Aripo.
Coura River, on the West Coast is capable of being made navigable to the distance of 5,000 paces.
The River Siparia is navigable to the distance of 3,000 paces, and might be extended to 7,000.
The Ortoire or Guataro, is the principal River on the East Coast, having from its entrance to the Morne Orange (a distance of about 20 miles) two, four, and five fathoms; but the mouth of this River being shoal water, it would be requisite to cut navigable Canal of 2,600 paces from the Ortoire (between the Settlements of Guias and Thomazo) to the Bay of Mayaro, thereby giving the utmost facility of exportation to the productions of this immense tract of cultivable Land. The Anchorage in Mayaro Bay is safe, having good holding ground with a bottom of sand and gravel.
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You may embark or disembark in this Bay at any time of the Tide. The Tide is perceivable in this River about the junction of the Moura.
The Neg or Nariva River runs parallel to the shore at a short distance from it, forming a Canal of about five or six miles in length, with three, four, and five fathoms; it receives the Waters of the Mangrove Trees, which spread over all this part. The water of this River is black, and so much tainted as to render the Sea frothy throughout the Bay. There are two navigable Channels, connecting the Rivers Neg and Ortoire, which greatly facilitate the draining of those Rivers when inundated.
Lebranche This River is navigable to the distance of 6,000 paces, the Marshes at the entrance might be drained with facility.
The River Oropouche is navigable to the uppermost branch, clled the Guaro (a length of 18 miles) from which a Canal might be made to the Aripo, and thereby connect the two opposite Streams of the Oropouche and Caroni.
Savanas, of which there are several in this Island. Savana Grande, or Great Savana of Caroni, is a large tract of drowned Land, part in Savana, although flooded in the rainy seasons. Notwithstanding the center of this Marsh is level with the Sea, yet a considerable portion of it might be successfully drained by making strait Cuts to connect the inflections of the River Caroni; the narrow Channels of which from becoming incumbered at the time of the inundations, overflow all the Lands adjoining thereto.
The Laguna Grande, or the Great Lagoon, is another tract of Marsh Land, inaccessible.-These Savanas produce a great quantity of the Mangrove trees.
Marsh of Icaque, in this Savana, which is level with the Sea, are two Gulfs; one of which has an elevation of seven feet, the other thirteen; mud and calcareous earth are continually gushing out of them. Two of the principal Mouths produce detonations in the months of March and June, throwing up at the same time metallic particles, stones rounded by friction, and other heterogeneous substances.
The other Marshes are those of Ortoire, Oropuche, and the Mangroves.
At Cape de la Brea (the western extremity of the Great Lagoon) is a Lake of Bitumen or Pitch, situated 80 feet above the level of the Sea, and very extensive; good water may always be found in some of the openings at two, four, and eight feet depth; there are also some small Islands of the Mangrove trees. The sort of Pitch which is best for the use of Shipping, is found in the center of the Lake; upon any pieces of it being cut out
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With an axe or otherwise, the chasms will fill up immediately. The several branches of this Lake are level throughout, extending towards the Sea, but are all sustained by the main Spring or focus. The Village of la Brea is established upon one of these Branches, but the Pitch that is found near the Sea has received more heat, and contains a greater quantity of heterogeneous substances. Father Gumilla tells us, that about 60 years ago, a little before he came to Trinidad, a spot of land on the Western Coast, near half way between the Capital and the Indian Village, did sink suddenly, and was immediately replaced by a small lake of Pitch to the great surprise and terror of the inhabitants.
The Western Coast of the Isle of Trinidad, with the opposite Coast of the Province of Cumana, form the extensive Gulf of Paria, named, named by Columbus, Golfo de Ballena, or Gulf of the Whale. There is good Anchorage in this Gulf on the Coast of Trinidad, having from 3 to 10 and 16 fathoms water, mud bottom.
Chaguaramas Harbour lies on the north shore of this Gulf, about three leagues west of Port of Spain; is capable of receiving the largest Ships of War, having from 4 to 25 and 40 fathoms water, gravel and ooze bottom; the Shores are bold and steep. When the British Forces attacked the Island in 1797, the Spaniards burnt in this Harbour one Ship of 80 guns, two of 74 guns, and one Frigate of 32 guns.
The Careening Place (le Carenage) is shallow, having from two to four fathoms water, and therefore is suitable for Merchant Ships only.
Gaspar Grande,-on this Island, the Spaniards have constructed a Battery of Masonry to protect the Harbour; it is ill situated, and without solidity.
Port of Spain (Puerto d’Espana) is situated on the North-East Coast of the Gulf of Paria, having a jetty or Quay of Masonry, with a Battery en Barbette even with the water’s edge for defence of the Town; here are also two other Batteries on the east side.
The Bay before this port is one of the safest and most extensive in the wsorld; ships being able to anchor there in a superficial space of above 70 miles, with a depth of water from 12 to five fathoms only one mile off shore, and all good holding ground. Should they drive from their anchors, they go on shore in soft mud, and are got off without damage. A white half-moon Battery, just above the town, on the brow of the hill, is a good Mark for the Bay, and may be seen a long way off. This Battery, by large ships, should never be brought to the northward of N.N.E. and the best anchorage is in the north-west bight of the Bay.
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ST. JOSEPH DE ORUNA, the capital Town of the Island, is situated seven miles east from the Port of Spain; on the road between these two places, is the Village of St. John.
Indian Missions in this Island, among the few Caribs which remain of its first inhabitants, are those of Arima, Toco, Gayaro, Cumana, Monserat, Savana Grande, and Siparia.
The Population of Trinidad, according to the account taken in July 1797, (see the annexed Table) amounted to seventeen thousand, seven hundred and eighteen souls, including all descriptions.
Near Cape la Brea, a little to the south-west, is the Gulf or Vortex in the Sea, which, in stormy weather, gushes out, raising the water five or six feet, and covers the surface for a considerable space with Panoleum or Tar.
On the East Coast in the Bay of Mayaro there is another Gulf or Vortex, similar to the former, which, in the months of March and June, produces a detonation like thunder, having some flame with a thick black smoke which vanishes away immediately; in about 24 hours afterwards is found along shore of the Bay, a quantity of Bitumen or Pitch, about three or four inches thick, which is employed with success.
Along the Shore of Cocos Bay to the distance of about 50 paces, are found a great quantity of Palm or Cocoa Trees, whose species is not natural to the Island; a Launch coming from the River Orinoco, laden with Cocoa Nuts, was wrecked in this Bay, by which accident these trees were planted and continue to multiply.
We shall conclude this short, but perhaps comprehensive account, considering the scantiness of our materials, with some observations on the Gulf of Paria, and the lands which surround it; and on the River Orinoco, a great part of whose Waters are discharged in that Gulf.
The GULF OF PARIA, received at first the several names of Gulf of the Whale, Gulf Triste, and Fresh Water Sea; its length from East to West is about 30 sea leagues, and its breadth from North to South about 15. The lesser arm of Rio Orinoco, named Cano de Pedernales (“channel of the Pebbles”) and an immense number of smaller branches of various widths, all flowing in a northerly direction from the main Stream of the Orinoco, bring the tribute of their waters to this inland Sea. It has two great issues into the Atklantic Ocean; namely, the Northern Mouth divided into four openings, three small ones on the eastern side, and a large one about two leagues broad on the west part, adjoining to Paria the Continent. To this Columbus gave the name of the Dragon’s Mouth, as he had given that of the Serpent’s Mouth, to the eastern issue of the Gulf in the Atlantic
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Which is about three leagues broad, with a small Island (called Soldier’s Island) belonging to Trinidad in the middle of it.
On the North side the Gulf is separated from the Atlantic Sea by a narrow neck of fertile Land, which Columbus has named Paria, it is occupied by a few Indians, whose villages, chiefly along the Coast, are thinly scattered; the Spaniards had lately in that part some settlements of French Emigrants from the Antilles; but according to report these Colonists have been lately expelled.
The west and south sides of the Gulf are all low, swampy grounds, but especially the south side as far as the Cano de Pedernales, where the Orinoco might be said to begin, and which is the Canal of communication with the main stream of the River; the length of this Channel is about 50 leagues, and its navigation not difficult.
All the part belonging to the River is remarkable for its periodical overflowings; the Orinoco beginning to swell in April, increases progressively during five months, and rises on the sixth to its greatest height. In October it begins to decrease gradually till the month of March, during the whole of which it is at the lowest level of its diminution. These alternate variations are regular and even invariable.
This phenomenon, the cause of which is unknown, appears according to Abbe Raynal, to depend more on the sea than on the land: during the five months of the River’s increase, the hemisphere of the new World, in some degree exposes only Seas, and scarce any Lands to the perpendicular action of the solar rays: during the following six months of the River’s decrease, the immense Continent of America only is presented to that same action; the Sea then is less subject to the active influence of the sun, or at least its shelving towards the eastern Coast is counterbalanced, and broken in a stronger degree by the Lands; it must therefore leave a greater freedom to the course of the Rivers, which being in that case not so closely kept back by the Sea, can be swelled only by the melting of the snow in the southern Cordilleras, or by the rains. Perhaps also it is the rainy season which determines the increase of the Orinoco; we shall add that this is the opinion of Father Gumilla, who seems to have examined this singular effect with great attention. “When some enlightened nation,” concludes Abbe Raynal, “shall become acquainted with the banks of the Orinoco, “the phenomena of its course will be known, or at least they will be “thoroughly studied.”
The branches of the Orinoco, as numerous as they are intricate, form a multitude of Islands of different sizes, which you find covered with palm trees; although their soil lies under water during six months of the year and
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the tide covers it twice a day; they are inhabited by the Guaraunas, who have found the means of constructing commodious huts on high piles deeply driven in the mud, and sometimes to build them in the trees themselves, which at the same time supply them with food, drink, household furniture, canoes, etc. etc. These Indians are supposed to be about six thousand, their language is soft, easily learnt, and spoken by all the Spanish traders of Guyana; they are very expert fishermen, and trade in fish, nets, baskets, etc. made with the leaves of their palm trees. They are a mild, gay and sociable nation, always dancing, and at peace with every body.
FINISH
J. Smeeton, Printer, 148 St. Martin's Lane, Westminster
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List
of Proprietors of Land in the Island of Trinidad March 20th 1797
