DRESSMAKERS ON THE CUTTING EDGE

 

By Franka Philip

Express

November 3, 1997

Page 31

 

 

In a few weeks, the green and yellow bristol board uniform patterns that hang in Janouras Custom Design cutting room will be neatly packed and stored away. The large drawing tables will be replaced by electronic drafting tables, on which the pattern maker will use a stylus to draw patterns on the tabletop. These patterns will go straight to a computer in the next room that will size the patterns and send them to another computer where they will be matched with the cloth for cutting.

"We're making this process paperless," said George Janoura, chief executive officer of Janouras Custom Design.

Janoura is excited by the possibilities new technology has opened up for his company, which has been making career apparel for the last 30 years. His company prides itself being on par with the international garment industry leaders, as their software and computer system is the same kind used by industry leaders like designer Liz Claiborne.

Janouras Custom Design is also equipping itself for the advent of mass customization.

"Mass customization is an oxymoron," said production/operations manager Anthony de Silva. "But the essence of mass customization is that the customer can have a mass-produced good that is made to fit his or her unique specifications.

"Levi's does this and we are using software similar to what Levi's jeans company uses," he said.

This software has made it possible for Janouras to handle the many variations in sizes since it is now possible to alter any pattern before the garment is made, by just plugging in the individual's unique measurements.

The Janouras "dynasty" began in 1955 when Miguel Janoura took over the NS Sabga and Sons fabric store. His two sons, George and Joe who worked with him set about finding ways to expand the business and this was how Janouras Custom Design was started in 1967.

"At first, we used to supply the fabric to the banks who would then have the workers get them made on their own," he recalled. "This used to cause a lot of confusion, because the uniforms were never consistent, people never had them made on time, there were all kinds of problems."

When the banks turned to the Janouras for help, they enlisted the help of Lorna Walker whose dressmaking shop was on Flament Street.

It was not long before the Flament Street shop became too small for the growing uniform business. The Janouras then opened their garment factory and put Walker in charge. Royal Bank, Clico, Scotia and BWIA were among the companies that wore Custom Design uniforms 30 years ago and have maintained the relationship. Now their client list includes companies like TSTT, Eastern Credit Union, FCB, Air Caribbean, Tatil and Nemwil.

With the advent of trade liberalization in the early 1990s, garment manufacturers had to reassess their position in the face of new competition. Fortunately, Janouras Custom Design was not adversely affected. Their business came from many of the large private and public sector companies 90 per cent of which had contractual agreements.

But Janoura didn't rest on his laurels and in reviewing his organization's position, decided that if the company had to survive into the 1990s and beyond, he had to make changes - introduce new technology and seek new markets.

He believes his company is in a good position, because they are in a niche market.

"In our market, the customers are looking for sophisticated garments, said Janoura. "To stay on top, we gave the best quality, best service, best fit and value - we even guarantee our clothing."

Janouras had made inroads in the regional market. Janouras Custom Design uniforms are worn in the Bahamas, Barbados, St Lucia, Belize and Antigua.

Janoura's daughter, Jacqueline Janoura-Bernard, handles many of the regional clients. She and her father are part of a team that includes designer Glen Montes de Oca and production/operations manager Anthony de Silva.

"I started working in the company five years ago," she said. "On my first day, he handed me the Caribbean Yellow pages and told me to do some selling. I started with the banking sector and I'm still there."

Like her father, the younger Janoura is big on service and quality. She ensures her regional clients get personal attention and is usually the one to go out and meet them.

There have been few problems in accessing the Caricom market, usually they are allowed concessions but sometimes they encounter a lot of red tape. However, the exchange rate makes Janouras Custom Design more attractive to the regional buyers, as it is cheaper to buy uniforms from Trinidad.

She has strong views about the garment industry, particularly as she feels the Government has put the industry on the back burner.

"There is still a stigma attached to the garment industry, but there must be respect for the workers because sewing is an art." Janouras has a staff of 100, all of whom are constantly being retrained to cope with the new technology.

The Janouras are also involved in a project with the Living Water community, where they have helped them to set up a training centre which is being co-ordinated by a former employee. George Janoura has fond memories of the store his father started on the corner of Queen and Henry Street.

"I remember when we advertised as The Best Dressmaker's Shop," Janoura chuckled. "Some of our competitors and advertising agencies wanted to make that a big issue but our lawyers let them know that it was up to them to disprove our claim, and of course they couldn't."

Janoura is confident about the future of his company because he knows his team of young employees is capable of carrying on the tradition. His daughter is equally confident, but she gives her father full marks for inculcating a culture of proactivity and openness to change.

In addition to making substantial investment in technology, Janouras Custom Design will be expanding its Sackville Street home next year. In a way, it's a fulfillment of Joe Janoura's assertion of 30 years ago that "Janouras will be the shopping mecca for sophisticated women in Trinidad and Tobago and the West Indies." Janouras didn’t become a major shopping centre, but 30 years later they have become the mecca for career women n Trinidad and the West Indies.

TOP